Spider mites can cause serious damage to your orchids. We'll show you what you need to know and how to get rid of the mites.
Pests on orchids can, in the worst case, lead to the death of the plant. In order to be able to take effective action against the pests, it is important to first identify them correctly in order to be able to select the appropriate natural or chemical pesticide. If orchids are infested with mites, they are usually spider mites. Means that can be used for a lice infestation are usually not particularly effective for a spider mite infestation.
We will therefore tell all interested readers how mites can be recognized on orchids. Only in the second step do we then show how this plague of pests can be tackled in order to save the plant after all. The focus is clearly on means that are as environmentally, human and (pet) friendly as possible. In addition, all hobby gardeners can rely on various preventive measures so that the plant cannot be infested with spider mites in the first place.
More information about spider mites
There are around 1,200 different species of spider mites worldwide, which belong to a subclass of mites. Spider mites are usually found on the underside of the leaves on orchids and other infested plants. There, the mites spin extremely fine, whitish shimmering nets that serve to protect the pests. The mites feed on the plant's juices, which in turn robs the infested orchid of a great deal of strength. If the plant is punctured by the mites, the orchid will be damaged. Overall, there is a large variety of spider mites worldwide, each infesting very different plant species. The following spider mites in particular become an economic problem:
- Red Spider
- Common spider mite
- Lime spider mite
Appearance of the Spider Mite
The body shape of a spider mite is more or less reminiscent of a pear. The tiny length of these mites can be 0.25 to around 0.8 millimeters. This type of mite also has a reddish,orange, greenish or yellowish colouration. The soft-skinned mites also have bristles. A maximum of 16 pairs of hair can be seen if you look closely. Spider mite larvae have three pairs of legs. Adult spider mites, on the other hand, have not just six, but eight legs.
Harmful effects of spider mites
In addition to the delicate, white webs, the spider mites also ensure that the leaves of the affected plant have a silvery sheen. This is the logical consequence of the pricking and sucking out of the leaves by the mites. If the infestation has already reached an advanced stage, the leaves will turn brown-black, which indicates that they are dying and that the entire plant/orchid is about to die. The fact that this decline is progressing quite quickly is easy to explain. After all, only a spider mite stings the leaves of the orchid in extreme cases even a whopping 20 times a minute. The tissue cells of the plant leaves cannot withstand this stress for long, especially in the case of many spider mites.
Don't ignore signs of spider mites!
If there are a lot of light yellow speckles on the leaves of the orchids, this is a solid indication of an infestation with spider mites. Now it is high time to take action against the pests. If this does not happen, first the leaves and then the shoots and finally the entire plant will die. If the infestation is noticed too late, there is no longer any hope that the affected orchid can still be saved. In addition to orchids, the following plants are also frequently attacked by various types of spider mites:
- Cucumbers
- Roses
- Apple
- Pear
- Peach
- Plum & Damson
- Strawberries
- Raspberries
- Gooseberries
- Currants
- Yews
It should be noted that spider mites particularly like to pounce on plants that are already weak. Because then the mites have a much easier time.
Lifestyle of spider mites
Anyone who wants to successfully combat an infestation with spider mites should know the preferred way of life of the mites. They love a dry and warm climate. A sheltered location is also ideal for the spider mites. Although the individual spider mites can only have a lifespan of a few weeks, these pests multiply incredibly quickly. A few mites can quickly become a whole colony. Particularlythen, once the mites have infested an orchid located either in a warm, toasty greenhouse or a warm and bright window sill, they can even reproduce all year round.
Spider mites multiply rapidly
For this very reason, orchids are at risk of being infested with spider mites all year round. A single spider mite can lay up to 100 eggs before it dies, environmental conditions permitting. The females lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves. It only takes three days for the first mites to hatch from these eggs. In one to two weeks, the former larvae have become adult mites that can reproduce. This is another reason why it is so important to get the infestation under control as quickly as possible, before the mites can spread to other orchids in your own home or in the greenhouse.
Spider mites like it warm
Infestation with spider mites can be observed outdoors, especially in summer. In closed, warm rooms, the spider mite infestation of various indoor plants can also become a problem in winter, which is due to the pleasantly warm ambient conditions. Because the cozy heating air ensures that the mites feel completely comfortable and multiply happily. It can happen that the spider mites are first introduced when you buy a new houseplant from a specialist shop or garden center and then spread to the existing plants.
Prevent spider mite infestation
Although we want to take a closer look at the possible measures to combat spider mites on orchids below, we would first like to go into which preventive measures make sense. Given the living conditions favored by these pests, it is advisable to ensure the humidity is as high as possible. Because spider mites do not like this moisture at all. In summer or during heating periods, which are also characterized by rather dry air, it makes sense to spray the plants regularly with water. This increases the humidity. In addition, the plants should be supplied with sufficient water.
New orchids prefer to be quarantined
In addition, when buying new plants, it is important to ensure that they are not already infested. If the infestation is very small, the isolated spider mites are difficult to see with the naked eye. So who upIf you want to be on the safe side, all new plants that are to move into your own apartment are ordered to be quarantined first. After all, it only takes a few days for the mites to hatch from their eggs.
The mites can then reproduce within a maximum of two weeks. Whether an orchid or other houseplant is actually infested with spider mites can be seen very quickly. If so, the newly purchased plant should first be treated for spider mites before being allowed to join the other houseplants that are already there.
Care - strong plants are more robust
In addition, good care of the existing orchids is a must. Finally, the chances of an infestation increase when the plant is already weakened. Strong, he althy plants that are in the prime of life, on the other hand, are better able to defy the mites. Regular fertilization also ensures that the orchids are much more resistant to possible spider mites.
The care measures for orchids are explained very well in the video:
By loading the video, you accept YouTube's privacy policy.
Learn more
Load video
Always Unblock YouTube
Natural enemies of the spider mite
In addition, the following beneficial insects are natural antagonists of spider mites:
- predatory mites
- Predator Beetle
- Lacewings
- Ladybug
The promotion of beneficial insects to protect against a potential infestation with spider mites is only possible in greenhouses and not in your own living space. Regularly moistening the orchid with soft water has proven far more effective in closed rooms. Incidentally, predatory mites can best counteract an infestation with spider mites under the following environmental conditions: temperatures of around 25 degrees Celsius and humidity of around 75 percent. The earlier the predatory mites are used, the better. They are so effective as a natural remedy against spider mites because for every spider mite that hatches, two predatory mites hatch in the same amount of time.
Active action against spider mites
Examine orchid with magnifying glass and nebulizer
In order for the orchid to have the best possible chance of survival, it is important to recognize and treat the infestation as early as possible. It is therefore a good idea to keep a close eye on the leaves every time you water and fertilize the plants.
Because spider mites are tiny andare extremely difficult to see with the naked eye, it is advisable to examine the leaves closely with a magnifying glass. A water sprayer should also be used. This should be used anyway to regularly moisten the orchids and thus protect them from infestation if possible. Because the moisture allows the fine, white webs to be made more visible before it's too late. If the said speckles or spider mites and their white webs can be seen on the underside of the leaf, immediate action must be taken against the pests.
Affected plants immediately in quarantine
If an orchid is infested with spider mites, the first thing to do is move all plants that could also be infested to another room. The quarantine ensures that the infestation cannot spread to other plants. The place used for quarantine should not be too warm and have high humidity. Because the pests don't like that at all.
Spider mites don't like moisture
How to proceed against the pests depends, among other things, on how severe the infestation is and how resistant the orchid is. A relatively he althy and robust orchid that only has to contend with a light infestation can be sprayed with water. The following information must be observed:
- It is best to protect the root ball with a bag when rinsing.
- The plant can easily be showered in the shower or bath.
- Repeat rinsing the plant several times at intervals of several days to eliminate all pests.
You can optionally wrap the entire houseplant in a transparent foil bag for a short period after you have showered. The advantage is obvious: This ensures a high level of humidity, so that the spider mites normally die off within a few days or a week at the most.
Cut affected leaves and shoots
If the pests do not respond sufficiently to these measures, the affected shoots and leaves can be cut off. However, this should only happen to the extent that the orchid is still viable without the cut leaves and shoots. Incidentally, putting these leaves and shoots on the compost is not recommended under any circumstances. Because there the pests can continue to multiply cheerfully. That is above allproblematic because spider mites can be a problem not only for orchids, but also for other plants (even outdoors).
Kill spider mites with finished pesticides
Neem against spider mites
Prepared pesticides on a natural basis are particularly useful at an early stage of spider mite infestation. Because then the chances are good that the infestation can be mastered without the concentrated chemicals and the orchid can be saved from possible death. Sprays containing neem, which are easy to get in a well-stocked hardware store or garden center, should be the means of choice if the above measures have either not worked or the use of predatory mites is not a practicable alternative.
Biocides and Pesticides
Only when the orchid is on the verge of final ruin will most hobby gardeners want to think about more aggressive methods of fighting the pests. Before the orchid can no longer be saved, an attempt can be made with an acaricide, which is also available in specialist shops. These are extremely potent bio- or pesticides that are offered specifically for controlling spider mites. If these preparations are used in greenhouses or outdoors, it certainly makes sense to use a preparation that causes as little damage as possible or, ideally, no damage to a wide variety of beneficial insects, such as lacewings or bees.
Dispose of dead plants
If any rescue attempts ultimately failed, the respective orchid should be disposed of. For the reasons mentioned, this plant does not belong on a compost heap either. It is better to dispose of the orchid in the organic or household waste. If the dead orchid's pot is to be used for a new plant, you must ensure that it is free of any mites and their eggs. The orchid's former location should also be cleared of any mites that may have remained so that other plants are not exposed to the unnecessary risk of infestation.