Pruning roses in spring - That's how it's done

When the forsythia buds open, spring work begins in the rose bed. Among other things, the roses now have to be cut correctly, for example.

Roses with surprising flowering power and perfect he alth throughout the entire gardening season are what every hobby gardener wishes for. Admittedly: a demanding but not unsolvable goal. However, it is important that you work towards this goal throughout the gardening year. You have to start with the spring work in the rose bed when the spring sun colors the forsythia buds and the bloom opens. At this point, you must have pruning shears, rose fork and fertilizer in sight. But watch out! Rose is not just rose. Depending on the type of rose, care is different.

1Bush Roses

➯ Cut vigorous and vigorous roses

All bush roses, i.e. bed and hybrid roses, can be divided into vigorous and fast-growing as well as less vital and slow-growing roses. Those specimens that develop robustly in a short time and reach a height of around 1 meter must be cut back to five to seven eyes (see here).

➯ Cut weak-growing and less vital roses

Weak-growing and less vital varieties, on the other hand, only reach growth heights of 30 to 50 centimetres. However, they can also occasionally develop shoots up to one meter. They are generally somewhat weaker. In the spring you therefore have to shorten them to two or three eyes (see graphic).

You must pay attention to the following:

1.First of all, you need to gently de-pot the roses. Cautiously because the young and tender ground shoots, which are supposed to grow under the accumulated spot in warm daytime temperatures in spring, can quickly snap off. The young shoots still look white. With the constant exposure to light, they later turn reddish and then green.

2. On the bush you only need to leave the strong and he althy shoots. Weak and over-aged shoots fall victim to the secateurs. It doesn't matter whether the upper eye points inwards or outwards after pruning, as the top shoot always strives upwards.

3. Also, it is advisable thatDo not cut roses on beds that are still too wet until the soil has dried. In this way you avoid that the soil structure is permanently damaged when entering the bed.

2Climbing Roses

Climbing roses are particularly popular because of the density of their flowers. You can achieve this splendor of flowers if you shorten each side shoot of the main shoots to 3 to 5 buds (see view). In addition to the cut, you must also regularly rearrange the branches of the climbing rose to the climbing aid. Here, too, there are a few things to consider:

➯ Arrange in an arc to horizontal:

Arrange the branches of the climbing rose so that they curve to the horizontal on the climbing aid. The cut branches should fill out the facade very loosely. If you arrange them too closely, the rose is prone to diseases. It also flowers less vigorously.

➯ Do not cut away bottom shoots:

You must never cut away new shoots from the ground, as these contribute significantly to the rejuvenation of the climbing rose. On the other hand, all old branches that reach far into the air lead to gradual aging.

➯ Taper Cut:

If there have been no young shoots from the ground for a long time, a special pruning will help. Here you have to cut off a shoot a few centimeters above the ground. If the plant has vital roots, the climbing rose will start again on the remaining shoot.

3Shrub and standard roses

➯ Shrub and small shrub roses:

You must always remove weak and old shoots of the shrub roses. Then you only have to shorten last year's blossoms or end shoots (see picture). However, make sure that the shoots with their length and the blossom weight can also be carried by the branches of the rose. The shoots of the shrub rose should overhang slightly but not drop to the ground.

➯ Roses grafted to standard:

By pruning roses that have been grafted onto a standard, you create two conditions: On the one hand, you promote a rich blooming and on the other hand, you lay the foundation for a loose crown. In doing so, you must make the cut shorter on all standard roses that grow upright (shown here graphically), and you must also ensure that the top buds are pointing outwards.

➯ Climbing or ground cover roses as standard:

The climbing and ground cover roses are always left with shoots that are as long as possible. Only the side shoots shouldbe shortened with spring pruning.

4 Loosen the soil immediately after spring pruning

➯ Break up compacted clods of earth:

Right after the spring pruning, it is important that you loosen the soil in the rose bed. With a two-pronged rose fork (e.g. available here) simply break up the compacted clods of earth around the rose about 15 centimeters deep.

➯ Fertilize in spring:

Then you have to fill up the nutrient depot in the soil for the season, so you have to fertilize the roses. An organic-mineral rose fertilizer with a long-lasting effect is suitable for this, such as the Combo rose long-term fertilizer (e.g. available here). A fertilizer application of 100 grams per square meter (in March/April) provides your roses with all the important nutrients and trace elements for the next 6 months.

If the rose then gets 120 to 150 grams of soil activator per square meter, then give the soil additional care and at the same time strengthen the he alth of the rose.