Not all worms are the same! There are several types of compost worms in the compost heap. We explain their uses and how you can grow them yourself.
The compost heap is alive - and that's a good thing. Finally, compost worms ensure that organic waste is decomposed faster and turns into fertile compost. If you are interested in how compost worms work, what types of compost worms there are, and thinking about propagating compost worms, this article may be helpful.
Why do compost worms belong in the manure heap?
Compost Worms are particularly hungry. However, digestion works completely differently than in humans. The throat is dominated by a kind of upper lip. The intestine extends from the mouth opening to the rear end of the worm. Earthworms do not have a skeleton. The internal organs are protected by a muscular sheath.
When the worm ingests compost, sand and small stones also get in between. The soft compost travels through the esophagus and is kneaded into a paste in the gizzard. The stones are crushed in the process. The excretions are enriched with calcium. Calcium neutralizes the acidity and holds the worm droppings together in the characteristic mounds.
Now fungi and bacteria come into play. These break down the compost worm's droppings into small humus globules.
What types of compost worms are there?
Composting can be promoted by various worms. Hobby gardeners will find particularly effective helpers in these representatives:
- Eisenia fetida
- Eisenia andrei
- Eisenia hortensis
Eisenia fetida - the stinkworm
These worms are the most common in our compost. The stinkworm also lives under the turf of conventional natural grass. The worms reside in the upper layers of the soil, feeding on fresh organic material.
The dungworm manages to eat half its own body weight of compost every day, producing large amounts of material that can be converted into humus.
The stinkworm reaches a length of between five and ten centimeters and can be around half a millimeter thick. Since there are up to four worms in one eggthese compost worms reproduce very quickly.
Tip: After two months, the stinkworm is fully grown and can take care of its own offspring.
Eisenia andrei - the stripworm
This type of worm can easily be confused with the stinkworm. While there are no differences in size or lifestyle, coloration makes the difference. The coloring is mostly red-brown and monochromatic. The underside is often lighter. Since the individual segments look like a striped pattern, it is difficult for laypersons to distinguish them from the stinkworm.
Eisenia hortensis - the fishing worm
The European earthworm is blue-grey in color with pink rings. Once a popular fishing bait, earthworms are now an integral part of compost. In contrast to the species already mentioned, Eisenia hortensis can also use coarser and woody material. This compost worm is the largest of the species mentioned.
The giant redworm can grow up to 17 centimeters long. The thickness varies with the food supply and the contained soil moisture. If there is enough food available, a size of 15 to 17 centimeters is not uncommon.
The agile type of worm, also known colloquially as a tree climber, reproduces much more slowly than the other two compost worms. On average, there are 1.2 worms in one egg. It can take up to five months for the compost worms to reach maturity and become sexually mature.
What kind of worm is best for compost?
The best experiences are made with a mix of all three types mentioned. The preferred food for Eisenia Fetida and Eisenia Andrei consists of fresh organic waste. Eisenia Hortensis, on the other hand, prefers paper, cardboard and other woody material.
Tip: Eisenia hortensis is the strongest of the compost worms and can loosen the soil well.
Breeding compost worms yourself - is that possible?
Compost worms can reproduce themselves if enough he althy worms are already present in the compost or can be purchased. Propagation can take place in a special worm box or other container.
There are a few things to keep in mind:
- Make sure the worm box is adequately ventilated. Low oxygen will ferment the worm food and suffocate the worms.
- Compost worms are most active at temperatures around 20 degrees. The temperature should be asbe kept constant.
» Tip: At temperatures below freezing and above 30 degrees, the compost worms and all microorganisms die off.
- The worm box must be kept constantly moist. To keep the box from flooding, use a spray bottle to moisten. Paper and cardboard can absorb excess moisture.
- To avoid the contents of the worm box becoming too acidic, leftover citrus fruits should not be disposed of there.
» Tip: If the pH value rises to 6, 5 and above, adding lime can neutralize acidity and improve soil climate.
- The worm box must be covered, because compost worms appreciate the dark. Furthermore, the sun and possible predators are kept out.
The worms should be fed once a week. Remember that a worm eats about half its own weight. To prevent bacteria from multiplying, the amount of food should be limited. Weighing the compost worms initially can help with this.
The following overview will familiarize you with suitable and rather unsuitable food for compost worms:
suitable food
Fruit and vegetable leftovers (raw)
Egg shells (cooked)
Bread, rolls (crumbled)
Tea and coffee grounds
Cardboardpaper
wood shavings
unsuitable food
Cooked Food
Meat
Citrus Fruits
Dairy Products
Raw Eggs
Garlic
Printed Paper
Tip: Also read our article "What can go in the compost?".
The compost worm in the worm box
If compost worms are to move into worm boxes, be it for propagation or to set up a worm farm for longer keeping and breeding and to produce compost, there are a few things to consider.
A worm box is a larger box made of wood or plastic. There are usually two chambers. The partition consists of perforated bars or boards and can be easily passed by the worms.
Tip: If you want to try compost worm breeding for the first time, plastic crates that already have compartments and a tap for draining liquid are an easier solution:
First put some compost into the box along with the worms. The area will be gradually filled up. The filling of the second chamber is then started. When all the worms have migrated to the fresh compost, the finished compost can be removed from chamber one andrecycle.