Children don't like it at all, adults often like it even more - we're talking about Brussels sprouts. We will therefore tell you how you can plant Brussels sprouts yourself.
More flavor through frost
Brussels sprouts make few demands on their location, which is why they thrive in most vegetable gardens in our part of the world.
Another advantage for cultivation is that these vegetables are not harvested until autumn (from November) and thus enrich our menu with freshness very late.
» Tip:
A single frost gives the individual sprouts an even more intense flavor.
Sowing
Between March and April you must sow the Brussels sprouts seeds in small planters in a frost-free room. As soon as the little plants have grown well, you can separate them.
You can transplant these little plants outdoors from mid-May to early June. It is important that you keep a generous distance of approx. 50 to 60 centimeters between the individual plants. You should also note that Brussels sprouts must always be planted in a different location - plant in the same location for a maximum of 3 years!
» Tip:
You should enrich the site selected for cultivation with compost about 4 weeks before planting outdoors.
Care
Watering/fertilizing:
Brussels sprouts require very little care (regular watering in the summer months through to autumn) and minimal fertilization. If you have provided the location with compost in advance, a single fertilization is sufficient at the beginning of August - otherwise fertilize the cabbage twice a year.
Important:
If the leaves of the Brussels sprouts change color (a noticeable nutrient deficit), you must bring forward the fertilization. This problem usually occurs after long periods of rain.
Increase Growth:
In the summer you should then pile up the earth. In this way you can give the plants more stability. You should also examine the florets more closely from September. If their growth is weak, only the top buds have to be broken off - but not the side leaves - whereupon the growth of theRises rapidly.
Pests:
Natural enemies like the cabbage white (butterfly), which lays its eggs on the underside of the leaves, cause problems for Brussels sprouts. But you can easily remove them.
But the cabbage fly can also cause problems for the Brussels sprouts. This pest lays its eggs on the root neck of Brussels sprouts in July.
» Tip:
You can use vegetable nets against both pests. Simply stretch this loosely over the plant.
Harvest
You can then harvest the Brussels sprouts from around the end of November. You should pick the individual florets from the bottom up, as this will not restrict the growth of the remaining florets.
» Tip:
You should always harvest Brussels sprouts as needed. You can cover the florets that are not needed with brushwood or straw, which protects them well and significantly extends the harvest time.
However, if the temperatures drop below -8 degrees, you should harvest the Brussels sprouts completely and possibly freeze portions (blanch them briefly beforehand). Because a renewed thawing in nature makes the florets soft and rotten.
Important:
After harvesting, you should pull the cabbage stalk out of the ground and destroy it, not compost it. In this way you prevent cabbage pests in the new plant year.