The Japanese maple is a decorative ornamental and garden plant that attracts everyone's attention with its beautiful foliage, especially in autumn.
The small tree, which can also be planted as a shrub, is also known as Thunberg's Japanese maple or just Japanese maple. A total of several hundred species of the Japanese maple (Acer japonicum) are known, all of which provide a magnificent spectacle of colours. One of the most popular is certainly the classic Japanese maple (Acer palmatum).
This maple genus is widespread in the wild, especially in Japan, which explains the name of the tree. But the plant can also be planted in a pot in Germany and set the scene perfectly in a Zen garden, for example. Whether in the garden or on the terrace, many hobby gardeners in this country appreciate the maple as a real feast for the eyes, which, however, requires a certain amount of care.
Introducing the Japanese maple
In the summer, the Japanese maple has bright green foliage. Only in autumn does the plant shine in its dazzling blaze of color, which is reminiscent of the so-called Indian Summer. The leaves of the Japanese maple change color from red to orange to yellow in many bright tones. Equally attractive are the flowers, which have crimson calyxes and enchant the viewer with their pink petals. In a Japanese themed garden, this plant becomes a real eye-catcher. The Japanese maple looks particularly good in the garden with rhododendrons or azaleas.
Hobby gardeners in this country benefit from the fact that the plant is sufficiently hardy for the local climate. How much sun the tree needs depends on the variety. However, at least one partially shaded location is a must. Not only the tub, but also the garden is possible, whereby the maple tree gets along with many other plant species. Planting as a dazzling solitaire is also conceivable. The pretty ornamental tree can also be planted underneath without any problems, as the tree has a loose, sparsely branched root system with a small proportion of fine roots.
While the tree has a shrubby shapeassumes, you can assume a rather dainty growth height. However, there are also varieties that can reach a height of up to ten meters. It is therefore important to pay attention to this when making a purchase.
Which location does the Japanese maple prefer?
As far as site conditions are concerned, the Japanese maple is quite easy to care for. Above all, you should pay attention to which subspecies of Japanese maple you have chosen and what requirements this tree has for the perfect location. You should definitely consider the following when choosing a suitable location:
- a location with sun or semi-shade to ensure as much light as possible
- Sometimes direct sunlight for many hours is necessary for the leaves of the Japanese maple to shine in their full color splendor in autumn
- There are also some varieties that do not tolerate the direct midday heat, otherwise their leaves would burn - then please choose a shady location
- a wind-protected location so that strong winds cannot damage the maple leaves
- avoid too much draft
- like to plant near a body of water (e.g. next to a garden pond), as the Japanese maple loves high humidity
The right substrate for the Japanese maple
The Japanese maple does not do well without a suitable substrate. An extremely permeable and loose soil is a must. On the other hand, if the soil is too impermeable, harmful waterlogging can occur, which in the worst case even means the end of the plant. A soil that is always moderately moist is ideal. The plant substrate should also have a slightly acidic or neutral pH if possible. In addition, the Japanese maple appreciates soils with the following texture:
- loamy-humic, sandy, comparatively nutrient-rich soil
- Loamy soils that are too impermeable or heavy, therefore best mixed with peat/sand
- Mix in leaf compost for extra nutrients
- Drainage is essential when keeping buckets
- Use a plant substrate specially designed for potted plants if the Japanese maple is to be planted in a pot
- apply an additional layer of mulch, which can contribute to the preferred humidity
Planting the Japanese Maple
Planting this ornamental tree can be done without too much effort. However, asufficiently large planting hole is extremely important. When planting in a tub, this means that you should use a sufficiently large pot. Otherwise the roots of the maple cannot spread sufficiently.
Before you put the tree in the bucket or in the ground, you should prepare the planting substrate as already described. In addition, the soil must be loosened - to a depth of around 50 centimetres. This step is extremely important to noticeably improve the air circulation and thus ensure even better planting conditions. A location with a slight hill is also ideal when planting. Ultimately, this ensures that the drainage of excess water always works smoothly.
Tip:
If the location was previously affected by the so-called Verticillium wilt, it is completely unsuitable for the Japanese maple. Even if you were to replace the soil in the appropriate places, the risk of contamination with a fatal fungal disease would still be far too great. This could quickly spell the end of the Japanese maple.
Fertilize and water the Japanese maple
❍ casting:
The roots of this ornamental tree in particular distinguish the plant from the native maple. The Japanese maple has flat-lying roots. This means that a relatively large amount of water evaporates near the surface. While a temporary lack of water is not too much of a problem for older plants, it is different for young Japanese maples.
If you have just planted the maple freshly in the garden or in a bucket on the patio, you should ensure adequate watering at all times. Without the correct watering, the tree, which is initially delicate, cannot otherwise develop as desired. The following tips and tricks should therefore be considered when watering this tree:
- Water a lot and often, especially in summer
- It is best to water in the morning/evening when it is rather cool
- do not water the leaves to avoid burns
❍ Fertilize:
The best time to fertilize the Japanese maple is in spring. A depot fertilizer can be used, which supplies the tree with many valuable nutrients all year round. In the fall you should use patent potash, as this will help the tree overwinter.
If you have planted the Japanese maple in a tub, you should use a different strategy when fertilizing. In this case it is important that you have a specialUse slow release fertilizer. One gram of this fertilizer should be used per liter of substrate.
Propagating Japanese Maple - How it's done
Anyone who can hardly get enough of the magnificent ornamental tree can propagate the Japanese maple comparatively easily and cheaply. This means that other areas of the garden or terrace can be embellished with the shimmering maple. The optimal time to propagate the Japanese maple by cuttings is from May to June. Do this as follows:
❶ Take soft cuttings that are not yet lignified from the tree. Slight woodiness shouldn't be too much of a problem.
❷ Reduce the number of leaves on the cuttings so that less water can evaporate. Two to three sheets are absolutely sufficient. Also cut off the tips of the shoots.
❸ Use lava granulate, which is best with a grain size of around one millimeter, to rear the cuttings. If you rely on a rooting hormone, you can also count on better growth chances. A warm and humid ambient atmosphere is also very beneficial for the development of the roots.
❹ When choosing a location, direct sunlight should be avoided. However, the location for the cuttings of the Japanese maple should still be sufficiently bright. Drafts are particularly harmful to young Japanese maple plants and should therefore be avoided, although you should ventilate them sufficiently. You must also prevent waterlogging at all costs. However, the substrate should still be sufficiently moist.
It takes about eight weeks for the first roots to develop.
Does the Japanese maple need to be pruned?
Pruning the Japanese maple should only focus on dead or diseased shoots. Because a complete pruning would have a negative effect on the naturally very attractive growth habit of the plant. A pruning only makes sense if the ornamental tree hinders other plants. Don't forget the following tips:
- Prune back diseased shoots and dead branches as early as possible
- It is best to cut back in June or July for reasons of space - then just shorten the new shoots a little at the top
- Simply cut off shoots that have frozen in winter
- do not cut back in winter - otherwise the interfaces cannot heal, so that fungal spores have an easier time
Sunwinter the Japanese maple properly
Most varieties of Japanese maple that are available in specialist shops in this country are sufficiently winterproof. If it is a rather dainty plant, very cold winds can damage it. A wind-protected location is therefore recommended for wintering. From August you should also stop fertilizing with nitrogen. Otherwise, the plant could have undermature shoots, which would most likely not survive the next winter.
Except for straw as a cover on the ground, no additional winter protection is usually required. You should also cover plant pots. Styrofoam is ideal for this. It also makes sense to place the tubs on insulating wooden blocks to ensure better insulation from too much cold. In the case of potted plants, it is also extremely important that the water runs off smoothly even in winter. If leaves have already sprout, you should protect them with a fleece in case of late frost.
Pests and diseases in Japanese maple trees
As previously mentioned, Verticillium wilt can cause significant damage to Japanese maples. This is a serious fungal disease from which the maple will usually not recover. When it comes to other pests or diseases, the Japanese maple is quite robust. If you suspect an infestation of Verticillium wilt, the following signs can confirm it:
- dead branches
- limp, withered leaves
Unfortunately there is no fungicide that can cope with Verticillium wilt. It is therefore all the more important that you ensure that your maple is not infested. If there are only a few branches that are already diseased, you should cut them out immediately. With a bit of luck, this can stop further spread, although unfortunately this is not always the case. Be sure to clean and disinfect the cutting tool afterwards to avoid further contamination.