The oleander originally comes from the Mediterranean region and is very robust in its homeland. Care mistakes, on the other hand, quickly give him problems with us.
The oleander (Nerium oleander) is a plant from the Mediterranean region, which also enjoys flowering in our latitudes and is mostly kept in tubs. In its homeland, the oleander is a robust plant that requires little care. However, the potted plants in the garden and on the terrace are less resilient. Mistakes in care damage the plant and are noticeable through various symptoms. Recognized in time, they can be treated well.
The right location - Oleander is a child of the sun
A sunny location is particularly important for the Mediterranean plant. The plant loves direct sunlight and therefore a south-facing garden or balcony. If the leaves wilt or the flowers fail to appear, it may be in the wrong location. It should be noted that the plant should be protected from wind and rain. If the oleander loses its flowers, it was probably exposed to the weather and should move to a sheltered location as soon as possible. A canopy or a location directly on a house wall are ideal.
Avoid watering mistakes - oleanders are thirsty
Not least due to the sunny position, the plant needs sufficient watering. Potted plants in particular must not dry out. Bedding plants are a bit more robust, but will also wilt quickly and become lazy if they are not watered at least twice a day. On particularly hot days, you should water three times a day. With potted plants, the water requirement can be better controlled if you place the plant pot in a saucer. Otherwise, a simple trick will help: just stick your finger in the ground. If this stays dry, the plant urgently needs water.
Many plants love to be watered with rainwater. The oleander is an exception here. If the oleander is kept as a container plant, constant rainwater can disturb the balance of the soil and make the soil acidic. The plant does not want to grow and shows pale leaves, hintsthis indicates a nutrient deficiency. This occurs when the acidic soil prevents nutrient uptake. This deficiency can be compensated for if tempered, calcareous well water is used instead. Tempered water also ensures a rich abundance of flowers. If you still use rainwater, you should lime the floor regularly to avoid this maintenance mistake.
Be careful when pruning - less is more
Many plant species tolerate a radical pruning. The oleander is not one of them. If a vigorous pruning takes place in autumn, there will probably be no flowers in the coming summer, because the plant only produces flowers on two-year-old branches. However, the oleander has nothing against an occasional topiary, on the contrary, it becomes more robust and resilient. On the other hand, if you fail to cut back completely, older plants will become bare and unsightly. Leaves only form at the tips of the shoots. In this case, we recommend pruning all shoots down to about finger width. You will need some patience, but fresh shoots will appear soon.
» Reading tip: Cutting oleanders - instructions
Another mistake in care is to cut off old inflorescences. This also removes the base for the new flower. Old inflorescences are automatically rejected by the plant.
Missing flowers - why is it?
Oleander is valued for its profuse blooms, which appear between June and September. If, on the other hand, you wait in vain for the flowers to bloom, there may be a whole series of care mistakes. There is a need for action if the plant does not grow and develops few or no flowers. There are various possible causes:
- The plant is too cool.
- The plant is too dark.
- The plant is not getting enough water.
- The plant is not getting enough nutrients.
- The plant is infested with pests.
First of all, check the location. The plant needs a lot of sun and needs to be sheltered at the same time. Warmth and sun are the main indicators of abundant flowering. Oleander must also always be watered sufficiently. The best way to check this is to place the potted plants in a saucer filled with water. A nutrient deficiency can be related to a lack of fertilization and unfavorable soil conditions. Pests that can attack the oleander can be spotted with the naked eye. We'll go into more detail on that below.
Leaf fall - causes and tips
If the oleander loses its leaves, it does not always have to be a fault in care. Especially when the plant suddenly gets yellow leaves, it is important to keep calm. An oleander leaf can live for a maximum of two years. Before decrepit leaves are shed, they turn yellow. At the same time, new leaf growth begins. It is therefore usually a regular process and not incorrect care. Yellow leaves can also be the result of being too dry. If the leaves fall, first check whether the plant is sufficiently watered.
If the edges of the leaves turn brown and then fall off, the sunny child oleander may have gotten sunburn. This happens when the plant is transported too quickly from the cool winter quarters in spring and exposed to the blazing sun. Sun protection is an advantage in the first few days at the new location. Further interventions are not necessary. Leaves will usually grow back fresh and he althy quickly.
Problems in winter quarters
Oleander crab:
If you really want to overwinter your oleander, you should check it more often in its winter quarters. If there are dark spots on the stems and shoots, the plant could be infested with oleander canker. The following signs may appear:
- Inflorescences are not fully developed.
- Cripple flowers and seed pods.
- The shoots burst open.
- Growths reminiscent of cauliflower develop.
- Leaves are turning brown.
- Brown areas on the leaves are bursting.
The signs are often misinterpreted and attributed to being too dark or not having enough water. Oleander canker is caused by a bacterium that is believed to be present in all plants found in Europe. Whether the disease finally breaks out depends on the external conditions and the general resistance of the plant. The disease usually breaks out in the winter quarters. Oleander cancer cannot be treated either biologically or chemically. Affected shoots must be cut back as soon as possible, as the growths spread quite quickly. You should then leave the plant in the winter quarters. Make sure there is enough light and ventilate regularly!
Blight:
Dry rot is a fungal disease that also often spreads at winter sites. Since the fungal spores spread through water, plants that suffer from heavy rainfall are also often affectednot sheltered in summer. The inflorescences and all above-ground soft parts of the plant are particularly at risk. The dry rot can be recognized by the brown spots on the shoot. The drive lying over the affected areas can no longer be saved and dies off. Since the fungus spreads quickly through wet conditions, quick action is required. It is not uncommon for the affected plants to die off completely.
Plants affected by blight will need radical pruning. The cut shoots do not belong in the compost. Dispose of them with household waste or burn the affected parts of the plant. The pruning must be done down to the he althy wood. You should seal the resulting wounds with tree wax. This is particularly important if pruning was done before moving to winter quarters.
Recognize and combat pests on oleanders
The plant is susceptible to a number of pests. These include scale insects, aphids, spider mites and mealybugs. If the plants are too warm in winter, they are particularly susceptible to pests.
Scale and aphids:
The plant is particularly susceptible to scale insects. It is therefore advisable to regularly check the underside of the leaves. If there are sticky spots there, on closer inspection you will also be able to see the hard shell of the scale insects. The pests adapt to the color of the leaves and can only be identified if the leaves are carefully inspected. The same applies to aphids. However, oleander is less commonly attacked by aphids.
spider mites:
The spider mite represents a real danger to the plant. Spider mites are easily overlooked with the naked eye. In particular, plants that actually have an ideal location, namely protected on house walls, are increasingly attacked by spider mites because they are carried by the wind. If the plant is free and draughty, infestation with spider mites is less of a problem.
The first sign of spider mites is a light mottled central panicle on the leaves. The spider mites are increasingly located on the underside of the leaves. There a fluff reminiscent of cobwebs becomes visible. In the advanced stage, the entire leaves turn silvery and fall off. Trade offers effective preparations against spider mites, including harmless ones based on rapeseed oil. The entire plant should always be treated. If the plant is heavily infested, it is advisable to repeat the treatment after about two weeks.
Home remedies for pest infestation
- Scab bugs can be removed with an old toothbrush.
- A hard jet of water helps against mealybugs and spider mites.
- Pests can be removed with a sud of soft soap or curd soap.
- Set up an insect hotel and attract predators (instructions for building an insect hotel).
- Treat the plant with nettle manure (nettle manure recipe).
Important: All parts of the oleander plant are poisonous! Wear gloves when working to prevent the sap from coming into contact with your skin.
The best recipe for he althy oleander plants
- full sun and sheltered location
- pour plenty
- fertilize every 14 days
- Planting potted plants in a potting soil-peat-sand mixture
- overwinter cool and bright, occasionally aerate and fertilize