If you want an ornamental perennial in your garden that not only flowers for a long time but also requires little care, then Gypsophila is a good choice.
By its Latin name, Gypsophila is known as Gypsophila. Among botanists, the ornamental herb is also called paniculate gypsophila, which scores points in the hobby garden with its long flowering period, which can last until late autumn. Thanks to the large number of star flowers, which make up the appearance of this plant, the gypsophila can be found in many gardens in this country. This is a white-flowered carnation plant, which can be combined as a pretty perennial with a wide variety of other plants in your own garden. Whether in the cottage garden or in the rose bed at home - the gypsophila cuts a fine figure almost anywhere.
Although this is a rather delicate, graceful plant, the gypsophila is still classified as very tough and robust. Even the winters here don't pose a serious problem for the herb as long as you use the appropriate frost protection.
Profile on Gypsophila
The homeland of the gypsophila stretches from eastern Europe to western Siberia. The carnation plant can reach a growth height of 50 to an impressive 120 centimeters. The roots of the herb alone can be up to 250 centimeters in length, which therefore makes a decisive contribution to the robustness of the plant. With its many white star-shaped flowers, which are rarely pink, the gypsophila blooms from around May and until September or even October. The hardy ornamental plant is also extremely popular as a cut flower and can therefore be wonderfully integrated into a bouquet.
Although the filigree herb has quite thick, turnip-like roots, there is no risk of it going wild in your own garden. Gypsophila does not spread like weeds and therefore makes little work for hobby gardeners.
Gypsophila - 2 popular varieties
❍ Gypsophila 'Flamingo'(Gypsophila paniculata 'Flamingo'):
| Golden trumpet tree (Catalpa bignonioides'Aurea') | |
|---|---|
| Flower color: | soft pink to pink |
| Growth: | 100 - 120 cm |
| Growth: | 60 - 80 cm |
| Flowering: | June - August |
| Location: | Sun |
| Floor: | permeable, calcareous, nutrient-rich |
❍ Gypsophila (Gypsophila repens):
| Carpet Gypsophila (Gypsophila repens) | |
|---|---|
| Flower color: | white |
| Growth: | 15 - 25 cm |
| Growth: | 30 - 40 cm |
| Flowering: | May - July |
| Location: | Sun |
| Floor: | dry to moist, well-drained |
How is Gypsophila poisonous?
Yes, you read that right. The Gypsophila saponin contained in the plant is in fact considered a poison. However, the quantities are so small that there is no danger to humans. With pets, however, the situation is different. Dogs, rabbits and cats are therefore not allowed to nibble on gypsophila under any circumstances. Although this would not be fatal, even a small amount of gypsophila is poisonous to the animals. That gypsophila is harmless to humans is also shown by the fact that gypsophila roots were very popular in the past for making soap.
Which location is ideal for the Gypsophila?
A look at the great outdoors shows quite quickly that the gypsophila is not a particularly demanding comrade when it comes to the right location. After all, gypsophila can also be found on many soils that do not actually give the impression that flowering plants could grow and thrive there. Whether on railway embankments and crossings, on actually quite desolate, sandy hills or even on screes - the lovely gypsophila can be found everywhere. This circumstance is very revealing insofar as the ideal soil conditions for the gypsophila can be derived very easily. The ideal location for gypsophila can therefore be described as follows:
- sunny, warm - full sun is also good (but not for young plants!)
- wind-protected location, provided it is a variety with quite tall growth
- dry and poor soil (but should contain a lot of lime)
- Soil without waterlogging
- deep soil that is as loose andis permeable
If gypsophila is to be planted in a tub on the terrace, on the balcony or in the garden, it is important not to just use simple potting soil. Rather, the soil should be mixed with the following additives to ensure the ideal site conditions for the gypsophila:
- lime
- Sand
- Gravel
- Split
The gypsophila is therefore ideal for planting in your own garden for gravel beds or rock gardens. The pretty herb also feels very comfortable on a dry stone wall.
Growing Gypsophila - explained step by step
In principle, a gypsophila perennial can be planted in your own garden or in a bucket all year round. However, the ground must not be frozen, so spring has proven to be the ideal time for planting. Then you finally have something of the long-lasting flowering of the Gypsophila in the same year. The following precautions should be taken when planting:
- Remove the site from roots, stones and weeds.
- Loosen the soil deep down with a rake.
- Then smooth the soil with a rake.
- Soak the root ball in a bucket of water.
- Create a planting pit and cover the bottom with drainage.
- Dig the herb in the hole as deep as before in the pot.
- Provide a support stake to tall gypsophila.
If you don't want to plant gypsophila in a bed but directly in a bucket, you should use a smaller variety of the plant. These are even suitable for flower boxes. It depends on a planter, through the bottom of which the water can drain, is crucial. Otherwise waterlogging means death for the gypsophila. This also applies to gypsophila in the bed. Therefore, it makes perfect sense if you plant the herb outdoors on a hill. Even in heavy rain, the liquid can run off more easily.
How big should the planting distance be?
Depending on the variety, you have to keep a different planting distance when planting. The following rules of thumb generally apply:
| Growth | Growth | Planting distance |
|---|---|---|
| 10 to 15 cm | up to 30 cm | 20 to 30 cm |
| 20 to 30 cm | 60 to 80 cm | 80 cm |
| 30 to 40 cm | 20 to 30 cm | 30 cm |
| 80 to 100 cm | 40 to 80 cm | 50 cm |
| 100 to 120 cm | up to 80 cm | 70 cm |
Grooming Gypsophila - How to do it right
Casting:
A look at the ideal site conditions for gypsophila suggests that this plant does not need too much water. This is indeed the case, which means that you only have to use a watering can in dry periods, which are characterized by a particularly long duration.
Fertilize:
You can even completely do without fertilizer with gypsophila. Because the herb does not need fertilizers to thrive. Too many nutrients in the form of fertilizer could even have the opposite effect and end up damaging the perennial. Even organic mulch should therefore not be used near the extremely easy-care Gypsophila.
Pruning:
Pruning the gypsophila is particularly recommended because you can then stimulate the herb to flower a second time. If that is your goal, however, it is imperative that the pruning is done at the right time. The pruning should therefore take place exactly when the gypsophila blooms for the first time. To do this, please start the pruning just above the foliage of the plant. It also makes sense to cut back in autumn, in which case the perennials should then be shortened to a hand's breadth above the ground.
If you want to beautify your living space with a bouquet of gypsophila, it is best to cut off the flower stalks in the early hours of the morning. Then only part of the flower buds have opened. You should of course remove the lower leaves before placing the gypsophila in a vase. In order for the bouquet to last as long as possible, you have to cut the stems at a slight angle, as with most other flowers. Lukewarm flower water is recommended so that the gypsophila is not exposed to a cold shock. If you add a pinch of sugar to the lukewarm flower water, the gypsophila will bloom even longer in the vase. A nutrient solution for the flower vase, which is available in specialist shops, for example, is not necessary, although sugar is cheaper anyway.
Hiberation:
Most Gypsophila varieties are hardy ornamental plants. After the pruning has taken place in autumn after the end of flowering, you should still cover the plant to be on the safe side. For example, you can use the following materials for this antifreeze:
- Leaves
- Fir fronds
- Twigs
- Straw
Snow and frost can hardly get through to the gypsophila to soak it. However, once spring temperatures start to rise, it is imperative that you remove the antifreeze. Otherwise mold can form. If you have planted the gypsophila in a bucket, you should position the bucket on a block of wood in winter and wrap the entire pot in a warming film as winter protection.
By the way:
If the gypsophila does not sprout again despite the tips mentioned, you can assume that you have accidentally resorted to an annual variety of the herb, where renewed budding is not to be expected.
Growing Gypsophila - This is how it works
❍ Propagation via cuttings:
The head cuttings that you took when you first cut back the gypsophila are a wonderful way to propagate the herb. Propagation can be done both in the pot and in the bed right next to the large gypsophila plant. It is best to cut the cuttings between April and May to a length of ten to 15 centimetres. Each of the cuttings should have three or more pairs of leaves, with a cut just below the last leaf node being ideal. If you want to propagate the cuttings in a pot, you should proceed as follows:
- Fill the pot with a mixture of peat and sand.
- Defoliate the lower part of the cutting.
- Plant the cutting halfway up.
- Slightly moisten the cutting together with the substrate.
- Put a perforated plastic sheet over the pot and the cuttings.
- Put the pot in a bright spot by the window.
❍ Propagation by division:
The gypsophila can also be propagated by division and by sowing. When dividing, it is important to remember that the thick roots of the gypsophila should be divided as early as possible in spring, but not completely. However, it is better if you gently remove a few root tears from the mother plant. The lower roots are then cut at an angle and placed in a pot.
The subsequent steps are similar to propagating cuttings in a pot, except that you should sprinkle the roots with a thin layer of sand on the top before moistening them. Only when the first pairs of leaves have grown can you move the gypsophila young plant to the garden. You should always use young gypsophilaShade it so that it doesn't come into direct contact with the blazing sun.
❍ Propagation by seed:
You can sow the gypsophila in March or April. It is best to proceed as follows:
- Fill a seed tray with seed compost.
- Then scatter the seeds and cover with a thin layer of soil.
- Spray the whole thing with a little water.
- Cover the bowl with foil or glass and air it regularly.
- Put in a warm place out of full sun.
- Wait for the first leaves to form on the plant.
- Relocate the small gypsophila young plants to individual pots.
- Do not fertilize and keep the young plants moist (but not too much).
- Young plants can be placed in the garden or in the bucket if they have sufficient roots.
Expert tip:
The Gypsophila varieties that are available as seeds in specialist shops are mostly hybrids that unfortunately are not perennial. So if you don't want to enjoy the splendor of gypsophila flowers in your own garden for more than a year, you should avoid sowing. It is better to rely on young plants that have been pre-grown.
Fighting diseases and pests on Gypsophila
❍ Fungal Infection:
Fungal infection is one of the possible diseases of Gypsophila. It can be recognized by the stunted appearance of the entire plant and the darkly colored stems. So that the fungi cannot spread like weeds in the rest of the garden, you must generously dig up the affected gypsophila perennials and destroy them accordingly. Waterlogging also contributes to the fact that the gypsophila is more easily attacked by a fungal infection.
❍ Snails:
Snails love gypsophila as a small snack. A snail fence can prove to be very helpful and useful here. However, this only applies in regions where you have to assume a heavy snail infestation due to the local conditions. Otherwise this investment would simply not be worthwhile. Slug pellets can also help. Or these tips against snails.
❍ wild rabbits:
Even wild rabbits like to attack Gypsophila. The only protection against the animals is a special fence, which is available in specialist shops made from the appropriate rabbit wire. This should extend a good 30 centimeters into the ground so that the long-eared bats cannot make their way underground to the gypsophila, which is so attractive to them. In specialist shops are alsovarious deterrents available especially for wild rabbits.