The marsh marigold is a popular plant in garden ponds and streams. There are a few care instructions to follow to ensure that there are plenty of flowers.
With its bright yellow blossom, the marsh marigold is the first splash of color in spring. Life at the garden pond is enriched by the easy-care marigolds. Anyone who responds to the needs of the buttercup family will enjoy the bushy plants and, with a bit of luck, even be able to enjoy flowering twice a year. But you have to consider a few things when it comes to maintenance. Find out exactly what.
Care instructions for the marsh marigold
❖ Casting:
Most plants in the garden bed face a big problem - waterlogging. Not so the marsh marigold, moisture is a necessity for the plants. If the marsh marigolds are placed in the shallow water zone of the garden pond, you don't have to worry about watering. Then there is always sufficient moisture available. If the plant thrives in a swamp bed or perennial bed, regular and sufficient watering is necessary.
» Tip: Marsh marigolds must always be moist. Missing watering means the end for the plant.
If additional irrigation is necessary because there is no water edge available, it should be watered alternately with rainwater and tap water. Then the recommended pH value of 5.8 to 6.5 can best be kept constant.
» Tip: If the marsh marigold is planted in a tub, enough water should always be provided so that the moisture is a few centimeters above the substrate.
Coming soon:
- constant moisture absorption ideal for location in shallow water zone
- always water enough
- Earth must never dry out
- alternately irrigate with rainwater and tap water
❖ Fertilize:
If marsh marigolds are planted at the edge of the pond, there is no need to add fertilizer because the plants are constantly supplied with nutrient-rich pond water. One is for plants that are cultivated in wet meadows, perennial beds or in tubsorganic fertilizer beneficial. In spring, the substrate is enriched with compost or horn shavings and then washed in well with water.
coming soon:
- no fertilizer necessary in the shallow water zone
- fertilize in the bed or bucket with compost or horn shavings
- mineral-organic fertilizer for flowering plants is also suitable
❖ Pruning:
The low-growing plants do not need regular pruning. In autumn, the drawn-in leaves remain on the plants as winter protection. Before the marsh marigold sprouts freshly, it is cut off close to the ground. This should be done by February at the latest, as the plants will start sprouting early.
» Tip: If the withered flowers are removed regularly, this encourages the marsh marigold to bloom again.
❖ Propagation:
The propagation of the marsh marigold can be done by root division or seeds.
Propagation by root division
Anyone who already has a well-developed plant can propagate it by dividing the rootstock. The root ball can be divided in spring or autumn. The perennial must be completely dug out of the ground for this purpose. Then expose the roots and divide them in half. While one half is put back into the planting hole immediately afterwards, the second piece of root can be transplanted to a new location. Thus, two new plants of equal value were created in just a few simple steps.
Propagation by seeds
In nature, the marsh marigold reproduces by seed. For the hobby gardener, sowing is more time-consuming, not least because of the special demands in terms of moisture.
» Tip: The seeds cannot be planted immediately, since they are cold germs, stratification is necessary.
❶ Select planter
❷ Fill planter with mud
❸ Sow seeds
❹ Cover seeds lightly with substrate and press down
❺ Fill with water❻ Set up the planter at room temperature for two to four weeks
❼ Store the planter in the refrigerator for about five weeks
❽ Get the seeds used to the higher temperatures
❾ Set up the planter warm and in partial shade❿ wait for germination
For the sowing of the marsh marigold you need an absolutely waterproof planter, because you will have to work with a lot of water right from the start. Nutrient-rich mud is first filled into the planter. The seeds are inserted into the substrateand lightly covered with soil. Now press the seeds and fill with water. The seeds should be submerged about an inch deep.
» Tip: Use lime-free water.
The planter is now kept evenly moist and placed in partial shade at room temperature for about four weeks. This is followed by the necessary stratification, which stimulates the seeds to germinate. The planter is kept in the refrigerator for about five weeks. The temperature should not be above 0 degrees.
» Tip: The water is allowed to freeze during storage in the refrigerator.
After the seed has left the refrigeration, a gradual temperature adjustment is necessary. First of all, temperatures are not ideal above ten degrees. The seedlings can only move to the warm windowsill after a few days.
» Tip: The seeds often have different degrees of ripeness. Green seeds should not be used for propagation, they are not suitable for propagation and will therefore not germinate.
❖ Hibernation
The marsh marigold proves to be absolutely hardy. Winter protection will therefore not be necessary. The foliage is left on the plant over the winter, providing natural protection. In late winter, the plant should be pruned back so that it can sprout again in good time.
❖ Diseases and Pests
Marsh marigolds prove to be robust and resilient when cared for appropriately to the species. However, a special type of fungus has it in for the plants. The rust fungus Puccinia c althae is difficult to spot with the naked eye. Signs of an infestation are yellow and brown pustules that appear on the leaves. These are the characteristic spore nests, which ensure that the fungus spreads to the entire plant if timely intervention is not taken. Therefore, all affected parts of the plant should be cut out as soon as possible. If the plant is not in the garden pond, light fungicides can be used. It is a preventive measure if the plants are not watered overhead, as the fungal spores only settle on moist leaves.
Occasionally, the marsh marigold can also be attacked by powdery mildew. The grey-white, wipeable coverings are particularly visible on the leaves on hot summer days, because powdery mildew is a fair-weather fungus. Again, all affected parts of the plant should be cut back generously. If the planting is not immediately ongarden pond, spraying with a water-milk solution can help.
Why isn't the marsh marigold blooming?
If the marsh marigold isn't blooming, it is most likely dissatisfied with its location. If the stand is too dry, the plants will gradually wither and will not flower. However, if you have done everything correctly, the plant is at the edge of the pond and still does not flower, it could be a plant grown from seed. Marigolds grown from seed take two to three years to flower.
Help, yellow leaves!
Yellow leaves are always a sign that the plant is lacking in something. Determining the pH value can provide certainty. If this is well above the recommended maximum value of 6.5, the lime content is too high and this prevents the necessary supply of important nutrients such as iron. Yellow leaves are a typical reaction to this, which botanists call leaf chlorosis. The deficiency can be compensated with an iron fertilizer. In the long term, the plant will only recover if it is supplied with soft water.
Is the marsh marigold poisonous?
Marsh marigolds are considered mildly poisonous. Those who are sensitive may experience a rash and swelling upon skin contact. If plant components are consumed, cramps, dizziness and vomiting may occur. Dried marsh marigolds contain no toxins.
Marsh Dead Flower Species
There are about ten species of marsh marigolds in Europe, Asia and North America. The individual varieties differ in terms of flowering time, flower color and flower texture. So there are double and half-double flowers as well as white or yellow color variants are possible.
| Art | Growth | Bloom | Blooming time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flore Pleno | up to 30 centimeters | full yellow flowers | March, April Second flowering in September |
| Alba | up to 25 centimeters | single white flowers | March to May |
| Gold Bowl | up to 30 centimeters | single orange-yellow flowers | April to May |
| Auenwald | up to 25 centimeters | single yellow flowers | April to May |
| Radicans | up to 10 centimeters | small single yellow flowers | April to May |