Whether, when and how you have to prune climbing roses depends on whether it is a once-flowering or multi-flowering climbing rose.
A touch of romance spreads. If you surround yourself with climbing roses, you can transform your house wall into a Sleeping Beauty castle and make the garden look idyllic and enchanted. Climbing roses must be pruned regularly to ensure lush flowering. Each type of rose requires specific care methods. We tell you why the rose cut should not be missed and how to do it.Why do you have to prune climbing roses?
What could be more obvious than simply letting the climbing rose run its course, after all it grows steeply upwards and thus does not take up any unnecessary space for itself. If you do not pruning, you will soon find that the roses grow upwards, but bare downwards and hardly form any flowers. Climbing roses need pruning to encourage flowering and encourage an attractive, compact growth habit. After pruning, the plants concentrate on developing new shoots.
If you don't cut climbing roses, you will get long, thin shoots, uneven growth and no flowering either. In addition, the plants are generally weakened and thus more susceptible to diseases and pests.
Pruning climbing roses - when is the best time?
The timing depends on the type of rose. A distinction is made between once and multiple flowering varieties.
An overview of climbing rose species
Rose type | Blooming time | Growth |
---|---|---|
Rambler | May to July | 3 to 9 meters |
Climbers | May to July August to October | 2 to 4 meters |
Rambler Roses are vigorous growers with long, supple tendrils. These climbing roses are mainly used for greening facades or planting rose arches.
Rambler roses - popular varieties
Rose variety | Flower Color |
---|---|
Rambling Rector | white |
New Dawn | soft pink |
Ibertine | pink |
Violet Blue | lavender |
Dazzling | pink |
Climber Roses grow rather sparsely and woody. The gardener uses the multi-flowering climbing rose for trellis and for greening smaller columns.
Climber roses - popular varieties
Rose variety | Flower Color |
---|---|
Dortmund | red with white eye |
Harlequin | white with red border |
Salita | orange |
Santana | red |
Golden Showers | yellow |
The once flowering Rambler climbing roses are pruned immediately after flowering in late summer. An annual pruning in the spring is not advisable here, as this would rob the main shoots of the energy they need to grow.
For the repeat-flowering Climber Roses, spring is the ideal pruning time. On this occasion, old or stunted shoots can be removed and a foundation for growth is laid for the coming season. Only faded flower heads and deadwood are then removed in summer.
Pruning climbing roses - preparation
Before cutting, check the cutting tools. So that the plants are not damaged, you should work with sharp and clean rose scissors. After the winter, many garden tools have become dull and rusty.
Who handles blunt and unclean rose scissors causes unnecessary injuries to the plants. The frayed cut edges heal less well and offer pests an entry point.
Our recommendation:
» Note: If diseased shoots are cut, the scissors must then be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected so that the germs are not transferred to other roses.
Pruning climbing roses - instructions and timing
Based on the two types of roses described, the pruning dates can be determined. The most important types of cutting are listed in the following overview. At the same time you will find the corresponding dates for ramblers and climbers.Cut Type | Date for once blooming Rambler Roses | Date for multiple flowering Climer roses |
---|---|---|
Pruning | Day of Planting Next Spring | Day of Planting Next Spring |
Conservation cut | in spring from the fifth year of growth | annual In spring |
Grooming Cut | not necessary | June to July |
Taper Cut | every seven years in late winter | in stages in late winter |
Pruning climbing roses - quick guide
Pruning preparation
- First, inward growing and crossing branches are removed. These branches are shortened directly on the ground so that they cannot grow back. This gives the climbing rose enough light and enough space to grow back he althily.
- Before the actual pruning, the branches of the plant are compared with each other. Weak branches are cut out. These disturb the compact growth of the roses and hardly form any flowers.
- Spring is the right time to free the roses from deadwood. The dead plant parts catch the eye because of their brown colour. It is important to remove these parts of the plant completely, as dead wood weakens the plant and attracts pests.
The pruning
Once the preparations are complete, the actual pruning can begin.
- Climbing roses are usually cut back less intensively than upright roses. To promote flowering, only thin shoots are shortened.
- Strong and firm shoots can be bent sideways on the rose arch. Many climbing roses develop most of their shoots in this position.
- The cut should always be made at an angle and is made about five millimeters above a bud.
- The side shoots are shortened to two to five buds (eyes).
- After cutting, the remaining shoots are attached to the trellis again.
Pruning climbing roses that bloom once a year
If the Rambler roses are pruned every year, the plants will thank you with a lush bloom. Climbing roses, which only bloom once a year, emerged from the wild roses. While the dense clusters of flowers inspire in early summer, the decorative fruits appear in autumn.
What needs to be considered?
- Annual cut in February from the fifth year onwards
- Pruning bare and dead tendrils
- Transfer overly long shoots to lower side shoots
- Tie rods horizontally during summer
The long shoots of the previous year should not be cut back. This is where most of the flower buds form. At the latest every seven years it is time for a rejuvenation cut. It is pruned in late winter.
Maintenance pruning for multi-flowering climbing roses
The multi-flowering climbing roses grow less luxuriantly than the ramblers. This simplifies the cut. Pruning should aim to encourage side branching.
What needs to be considered?
- Detach the shoots from the trellis
- Place the shoots sideways on the ground
- cut back the side shoots on the trellis to three to five eyes
- The distance to the next eye should be between five and ten millimeters
- Do not prune last year's long shoots
After cutting, the climbing rose should look like a chicken ladder. The step-by-step structure stimulates growth.
Pruning climbing roses - avoid these mistakes
- Miss the date
Although the date can generally be fixed for spring, it ultimately depends on the prevailing weather. If permafrost is no longer to be expected and the nights have become milder, the roses can be cut. If you cut them too early, the roses could be damaged. If you cut too late, the climbing roses will not be able to sprout optimally until summer. - Neglect pruning tools
Don't skimp on rose scissors. Rusty or blunt cutting tools cannot produce smooth cutting edges. However, these are necessary so that the wounds heal as quickly as possible. Bruises at the interfaces make the roses vulnerable to diseases and pests. - Skip summer pruning
If the roses were pruned in spring, the work is not completely done. In summer, removing wilted flowers ensures that the second flowering will sprout. Climbing roses that only bloom once should also be checked. Trimming can promote compact growth.