For a rich currant harvest, it is important that you cut your currants regularly. We'll tell you the best way to do this.
In order for currants (bot. Ribes) to produce the desired yields, the plants must be pruned regularly. There are differences between red and black varieties and the increasingly popular currant strains also require special pruning measures. In the following, the pruning of currants is explained in detail and the respective differences are discussed.
Why do currants have to be cut?
Most of the fruits form red and white currants on the side shoots of the perennial main branches. Yields drop significantly from the fourth year. Therefore pruning measures are necessary to remove the shoots. Black currants grow on the annual shoots. Here, too, the old wood must be removed regularly.
In general, pruning is also necessary to rejuvenate the plant and stimulate stronger growth. In addition, it is necessary to regularly remove the old and dead branches so that the bushes sprout vigorously and promise a rich harvest.
When should you cut the currants?
The best time to cut is late summer. Prune the currants in late summer immediately after harvesting so that they bring a rich harvest the following year. It is also possible to prune the currant in early spring - around March.
Tip: Both dead and wilted parts of plants as well as parts of plants infested with currant blister lice can be removed all year round.
What tools do you need?
You should have the following tools ready to cut the currants:
- hand scissors
- Pruning shears
- Jigsaw or saber saw
Tip: Don't forget the gloves.
Hand shears are not enough for the stronger shoots inside the plant. Pruning saws, jigsaws or saber saws are used so that no unnecessary effort is required. It is also important to create a clean cutting pattern. Straight cutting edges can only be achieved with sharp tools. is the edgefrayed, the wounds heal more slowly and bacteria and fungi have an easy time penetrating the weakened plant. Please also read our article "Wound care for woody plants - How to prevent fungal infestation".
Cut red and white currants
As already mentioned, the fruits are formed on the two to three-year-old shoots. If the yield decreases from the fourth year, the currant must be cut back annually. If the older shoots are removed, more young bottom shoots form.
Slow-growing shrubs are cut back by about a third every year. Young and perennial shoots should be in a balanced relationship.
What should be considered when editing:
- Older shoots should be removed completely.
- If the branches are close together, they are pruned.
- Leave about ten to twelve main branches on each plant.
Wooden shoots are sawn off at the base of the bush. They can be recognized by a dark color of the bark. So that the plants do not grow old, it is advisable to start breeding young shoots at an early stage. To do this, the old main shoot is cut in the third or fourth year.
Pruning out currants
With a thinning cut, the hobby gardener clears the way for the young shoots, which need enough light to be able to grow back. Two to three strong specimens of the new shoots are left on the bush. The old main branches and the remaining new shoots are removed.
The side shoots of the younger canes are shortened to around 30 centimetres. Side shoots close to the ground can be removed. No fruit would develop here anyway, since not enough light can penetrate.
Promote fruit development
All side shoots that bore fruit last year are cut back to about one centimeter in length. This is where new shoots will form. The fruits will probably not appear until the garden year after next. The other side shoots are not pruned. There it comes to the development of fruit in the following summer.
Cut blackcurrants
Since the fruits of the black currant appear on the one-year-old side shoots, this must be taken into account when pruning. The hobby gardener has it easier here and can carry out an “all-round cut”. This also helps the bushes keep their shape.
All weak shoots on the main branches and the base of the bush are removed. Will be in springthe main branches clipped above the second or third side shoot. The old main shoots are completely removed and replaced by new shoots that are left at the base.
Regular pruning is necessary, because from the second year onwards, hardly any fruit is formed on the older shoots. The old branches prevent the plant from growing and deprive the new shoots of light.
Tip: In order to preserve the appearance of the shrubs, at least ten branches should be left on each shrub.
Bushy growth can be promoted if the main shoots are completely shortened and only four side shoots are left on the bush. The plant will sprout vigorously and produce more fruit in the following year. It can happen that the still weak shoots bend to the ground under the weight of the fruit. The branches must then be supported.
Pruning redcurrant tall stems
In smaller gardens or on balconies or terraces, currants that have been grown into tall stems are increasingly finding their place.
The following should be observed when editing:
- Branches that grow steeply upwards are removed.
- Weak shoots are shortened.
- Pruning older branches that grow downwards.
- Water shooters will be removed.
In the case of tall stems, care must be taken to ensure an even crown structure. Again, it's important to use sharp tools to leave smooth cutting edges and avoid tearing branches during pruning.